In this interview Lucía Milagro Romero shares with us her personal and professional life,
traced for her grandfather.
Nombres Lucia Milagro Romero
Lugar de nacimiento Salta
Experiencia profesional Vintner, entrepreneur, mother and third-generation vineyard owner, Lucía's future was mapped out when she took her first steps on her grandfather's estate. Born and raised in Salta, Lucía is a hands-on leader who has spearheaded exports and product development for El Porvenir de Cafayate. With a Wine MBA from the Bordeaux Business School, she assembled a top-notch winemaking team and today works closely with winemaker Paco Puga and agronomist Daniel Guillén. She has promoted the winery as its director since 2013, with the aim of continuing to make known the new expressions of Cafayate.
Familia Today Lucia is happily married and raising two children: Nina (6) and Noah (2).
Aficiones Reading, going to the theater, walking, horseback riding and playing tennis.
1. I'd like to begin by asking you to briefly outline the history, philosophy, and people who work with you at El Porvenir.
History
Taking my first steps under my grandfather's vines in the Valley, my destiny was already mapped out. My grandfather, Roberto Romero, had already left his mark in the world of Argentine wine by cultivating vineyards in Tolombón, near the town of Cafayate. As a third-generation vintner, it was natural for me to follow in his footsteps and shape the identity of El Porvenir from its beginnings in 2000. At that time, my father acquired an old winery in Cafayate and an estate with old vineyards, which marked the rebirth of the current winery.
During that first decade, we planted new vineyards and in 2005 we took the first steps in exporting our wines, achieving a balance that lasts until today: half of our production is sold in the domestic market and the other half abroad. As head of the winery for more than a decade, I have had the honor of defining the new expression of the Cafayate Valley. I do it all with deep respect, dedication and love for the roots of northwestern Argentina, as well as for its present and future.
El Porvenir de Cafayate is not just a winery for me, it is a family heritage that I manage with passion and determination. We are rooted in the heart of the valleys, in a unique terroir, with high altitude vineyards that express themselves through our iconic vintages, our modern classics and our bold innovations. Each bottle tells a story that has been woven with years of effort and love for this exceptional land.
Philosophy
Our philosophy is simple and powerful: a woman passionately leading a family project in the very heart of the Cafayate Valley, wishing to share with the world the essence of El Porvenir de Cafayate, our corner of the universe.
Team
Our team is made up of 50 people. While most of them reside in Cafayate, we also have team members located in Salta Capital and Buenos Aires.
Building effective teams is not something that happens instantaneously; finding the right people to fill the various positions takes time, although it is certainly not an impossible task. At this moment, I am very proud of the team we have been able to build.
2. Talking about the architecture building where the winery is inserted. Our winery, located a few blocks from the main square of the town of Cafayate, blends past and future in unparalleled harmony. The traditional adobe walls, carefully preserved symbols of the rich wine culture of the Cafayate Valley, embody our deep respect for the roots of this place. We acquired this ancient winery, which dates back to the late 19th century, and with dedication we have fused it with state-of-the-art technology in our 1,000m2 facility. Many vintages rest in our cellar, along with 400 American and French oak barrels, which give our wines their unique character.
3. What was your beginning in the wine industry like?
I grew up running in the vineyards of my Nonno Roberto in Tolombón and developed a strong bond with the world of wine since I was a child. Wine was always part of my family, which has strong Italian and Spanish influences.
After graduating, I turned completely to working in the winery, which was just starting to market its wines, with the aim of starting to export in 2005. At that time it was the boom of Malbec in the foreign market, so taking that starting point we began to grow and today we export half of the production to more than 20 countries. During that time my focus was commercial, but after traveling around the world seeing trends and different ways of winemaking, I started to turn and get more involved in the production area that I like so much. By changing the winemaking team, I was able to start a new way of looking at the vineyard and a more modern and different way of winemaking than what was done in El Valle.
4. What was the company like when you started working there? How has your experience been as a woman, working in a winery?
At that time (2005), the winery had not yet achieved international recognition, so my focus was on a clear objective: to present Cafayate's unique wines to the world. I remember clearly how I would go to restaurants with my bottles of Torrontés, but I barely managed to capture their interest. On more than one occasion, I heard responses like
- "Torrontés? Don't you have some Chardonnay to offer me instead?"
Today, the Torrontés variety that we love so much is recognized worldwide, there is still a lot of work to be done, but we are on the right track.
It used to be the same for me with Salta or Cafayate; they were not areas recognized worldwide and still today it is a challenge to be easily associated with them, although they have managed to improve their position. During my travels, I used to carry a map, numerous photos of vineyards and cardones to graphically illustrate our unique desert area. At that time, we were few women who ventured to travel, and we did not have many female references, with the exception of a few female winemakers. Fortunately, this situation is changing; it fills me with joy to see more female colleagues assuming leadership roles and taking the reins of the wineries.
5. Do you believe it's possible to innovate even in a complex context?
Yes, I definitely believe that it is possible to innovate even in a complex context. Complexity can actually be a driver for innovation, as it challenges people to think creatively and look for out-of-the-box solutions.
It requires constant dedication, resilience and open-mindedness; however, the results can be truly transformative. This was the case for us with the "Small Fermentations" line, which we launched in 2019. With this line, our goal was to present new expressions of the valley, exploring non-traditional varieties and winemaking techniques. Despite uncertainty about whether they would be well received, we had a firm conviction that this valley had much more to offer, beyond the classic aged wines of great personality and tannic power.
To our gratifying surprise, we not only found a receptive public for these wines, but also gained new followers for our winery. The acceptance and enthusiasm awakened by these wines reaffirmed our commitment to innovation and motivated us to continue exploring the limits of what Cafayate can achieve.
6. How would you describe the culture innovation at El Porvenir? How has it held up over time? How would you characterize it?
Innovation in the winery could be described as a dynamic and constant process of creation and adaptation. Our culture of innovation arrived long ago and has been maintained through a combination of historical influences, social interactions and the incorporation of new ideas and technologies.
We have the ability to evolve and adapt without losing respect for the identity and unmistakable character of our terroir. We remain relevant in an ever-changing world. As an example, we have just launched the first GSM of the Valleys with very good results.
7. What are the grapes grown by El Porvenir?
· White varieties: Torrontés, Chardonnay, Semillón, Marsanne and Rousanne;
· Rosé Varieties: Moscatel Rosé;
· Red varieties: Tannat, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre (Monastrell).
8. Working in contexts of uncertainty and pressure sometimes is not easy, how does El Porvenir and its team deal with it, given that the wine sector is undergoing important transformations in many aspects?
Honestly, living in a country like Argentina means that one is constantly adapting to change. Here we face the challenges of working in contexts of uncertainty and pressure through a combination of adaptability, innovation, collaboration, with a constant focus on quality.
Constant Research and Analysis: We constantly monitor trends and changes in the wine market. This prepares us to anticipate and respond to changes and challenges as they arise.
Production Flexibility: Working with nature implies a constant need to adapt. We adjust our production and product portfolio based on the year's production, always with an emphasis on meeting the changing needs of consumers, while maintaining quality and authenticity.
Collaboration and Networking: We recognize the value of collaboration in an ever-changing environment. We like to maintain strong relationships with other players in the industry, such as wine shops, gastronomy, artists, etc. We share strategies that benefit us all.
9. The wine industry is an unusual industry, which requires much more longer terms, much more time. How do you think that resilience has impacted on the type of industry you work in?
The wine industry is indeed unique in several respects. Wine production involves processes that require time and patience, from the cultivation of the vines to fermentation and subsequent aging. The idiosyncrasies of this industry are entirely resilient. The passage of time in the wine industry triggers numerous positive aspects of the sector.
TIME: The wine industry values time in a unique way. This appreciation has fostered a long-term perspective in decision making and business approaches. Winemakers are willing to invest in quality and wait for the results.
TRADITION: Winemakers and wine producers take pride in our roots and traditions. We preserve methods and techniques that we pass down from generation to generation. The resilience of the industry lies in its ability to adapt these practices as technologies and trends advance, while maintaining a strong link to the past.
DIVERSITY AND ADAPTATION: The wine industry has demonstrated a remarkable ability to adapt to different climates, soils and local conditions around the world. This diversity has contributed to the resilience of the industry.
MARKET CYCLES AND SEASONALITY: The wine industry is subject to market cycles and seasonality that can affect sales and demand. However, the lengthy nature of the production and aging process allows wineries to manage these cycles more effectively.
10. How do you see future challenges can be faced: attracting investors, expanding the scale of production?
Our idea is not to grow much more in volume, but to put more focus on the wines we already make and make them reach more markets, more consumers, in some lines perhaps we will continue to grow, besides we have the grapes to do it, for now the focus is to be more precise with communication, with sales and make more people discover our wines in the world.
We are also developing tourism with the reopening of our winery house (hotel) and with a new gastronomic launch at our El Retiro Estate. Wine tourism is growing a lot in Cafayate and we want to add to the current offer in Cafayate.
11. What about quality standards? The wine market demands certain production standards, in addition to flavor / taste. How have you been handling that?
We have been adapting our processes to the current market demands. We are currently in the process of obtaining sustainability certifications for our farms and products.
Sustainable Vineyard Management: At Alto Río Seco, we have adopted a proactive approach to reduce the use of herbicides and promote soil conservation management at this and all our other estates. We are committed to protecting soil health, using techniques that minimize erosion and promote biodiversity.
Sustainability and Organic Certification: We are in the process of being certified to international sustainability and organic standards. In collaboration with the renowned certifier ECOCERT, we are working hard to meet the standards that guarantee quality at Finca Piedra Monte, Finca Alto Río Seco and Finca Alto Los Cuises.
Sheep Incorporation: Since last August, we have welcomed a flock of 50 sheep to our farms. These lovely companions play a fundamental role in our sustainable agriculture. By grazing in our vineyards, they contribute to reducing carbon dioxide emissions and minimizing soil compaction. As they move, they weed and fertilize naturally, helping to maintain a balanced ecological cycle. As a result, our soils are enriched with increased oxygenation and microbial life.
12. Like most companies in Latin America are family businesses, how do you see the role of families in business?
In Latin America, many businesses are family-owned and have been founded and managed by members of the same family for generations. This model has unique advantages and challenges. I find the positive aspects to be continuity and long-term commitment, flexibility and agile decision making, and family businesses tend to be more rooted in the community and may have a strong reputation due to their family ties and commitment to quality.
13. I'd like to ask some of the classic interview questions, what do you consider the "classic" profile of a Torrontés and Malbec wine, in terms of color, aroma, and structure?
Both are emblematic varieties of Argentina. Each has its own characteristics in terms of color, aroma and structure in wine. I think I can best describe them by talking about examples from Cafayate.
Regarding Torrontés. The most classic version gives wines of a delicate pale yellow tone and is characterized by its high intensity aromatic profile. Its outstanding floral quality displays a wide range of white flowers: Rose, Geranium and Gardenia. At the same time, it reveals citrus nuances, with flashes of lemon and lime zest, and sometimes subtle notes of white peach. This wine presents moderate acidity complemented by a subtle bitterness on the palate finish, which is characteristic. Although it may initially give the impression of aromatic sweetness on the nose, upon tasting it reveals itself as an "off-dry" dry wine. It is also distinguished by its light body and freshness.
As for the classic versions of Malbec in Cafayate, we find wines with violet tones in their youth that tend to evolve towards more black plum tones with aging. Typically presents aromas of ripe black fruits, such as plums and black cherries. Subtle floral profile of violets. Sweet spices, such as black pepper, typically appear in Cafayate. Medium-bodied with firm, velvety tannins. Very good acidity and a well-balanced fruit profile.
14. New challenges?
Reaching new markets and attracting new consumers, always with the aim of continuing to position the winery and our products as a reference in Cafayate.
We would like to turn more initiatives that go back to the community to continue making Cafayate grow. As we have been doing with our "PROJECT COMMUNITIES", an initiative where we sell wines and a selection of handicrafts made by women makers. Part of the sales are destined to collaborate with the Wichi community. We are honored to be able to sell these products and be active partners in the preservation of our culture and historical legacy.
15. New heights (altitudes)?
We always think about it. There are very nice areas to plant in the higher valleys, but for the moment our focus is on Cafayate and on achieving the best possible quality, being responsible with the environment and being authentic to our region.
LINK: https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/story-tradition-strength-romero-family-cafayate-argentina-amaral
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